Composting

Its about a year ago that Kelly and I got our first compost bin. In the past few weeks is the first sign that it is becoming compost. We also run an effective system the Bokashi system. We have some home made jobbies. It is amazing the difference it has made in the garden and in our waste. We fill a 5 L bin on a weekly basis and thats only the two of us. The good thing is we throw our meat scraps in to.
Visit www.bokashi.co.nz/ if you want more info. neil runs a great set up from Christchurch.
I have been told Australia runs a similar set up as well.

We really notice the impact our tradtional compost system has. The amount of green and brown waste that will go into out 50 L bin is amazing. I sometimes wonder if it is the tardus...takes more and more matter. Then when its full leave it a week or so and way we go again.

If you are new to the idea of composting then here are some key steps:


The basic compost recipe
The best compost needs a good balance of four basic ingredients: greens + browns + water + air.

•Greens – includes kitchen vegetable and fruit scraps, vegetable peelings, tea leaves, coffee grounds, soft garden debris, lawn clippings.
•Browns – includes paper, sawdust, straw, leaves, cereal boxes, cardboard, napkins, tree clippings, woody materials like cabbage stalks.
Note: Food scraps and garden material compost much quicker when chopped into smaller pieces. Paper products can be ripped into small pieces and soaked in water before composting.

Non-compostable materials
•Weeds such as oxalis, live twitch, docks, convolvulus and dandelions.
•Large pieces of wood, bones, inert materials like tins, glass, plastic, or diseased plant material.
•Meat, fish, fats or cooking and salad oils - these may create fly, rodent and odour problems.
•Plant foliage with chemical spray residue, especially hormone type weedkillers.
•Toxic material.
Getting started on composting
Locate your compost in a sheltered, level area of the garden with good drainage and access. The site should be within reach of a garden hose, and preferably not in full sun. The compost heap should sit directly on the soil.

First add a 100–150mm layer of coarse organic material to ensure good drainage and ventilation.

Next add equal amounts by volume of ‘green’ and ‘brown’ organic material, in layers. Fluff and partially mix materials and add water as you go to ensure the heap does not get compacted and dry. The compost needs to be moist and should have the consistency of a squeezed out sponge. Cover the compost with the lid of the compost bucket and leave for a few days.

Within a day or two, the material may heat up and start to shrink. Don't be alarmed if this doesn't occur as the composting process is still happening. To speed up the process, try adding some more 'green' material to the compost (like lawn clippings) with some water.

Continue to build the compost heap by adding ‘green’ and ‘brown organic material and water.

When the bin, enclosure or heap is full, tightly fit the lid, or cover with straw, soil, old sacks or similar materials. Leave the compost to mature. This can take several weeks to months to occur depending on the time of the year. During this time no new material should be added.

You will need to start another bin, enclosure or heap while waiting for the first one to mature.

Turning compost
Decomposition takes time. Turning the heap is not essential but will speed up the process. Composting takes about 3-4 months if the heap is turned and up to 9-12 months if it is not.

Perfect time to be starting the system. Reduce your waste and reuse them in compost of Bokasihi

Fraser